![]() Venison rack ($44), a dark burgundy, is the primeval pleasure of game meat cooked rare. There are chanterelles and pan-scorched baby purple potatoes and meaty demiglace scenting the air with truffle and thyme. Here, pastured hen (half bird, $38) - brined, seasoned and presented tableside in its roasting pan - is supple as butter and densely aromatic with shrinkingly crisp skin. Sometimes they do little more than add heat and let lead ingredients shine. This is a kitchen that understands techniques - roasting, grilling, stocks and mother sauces - that accentuate flavors. Marc Plessis, the Blue Hen's French-born, Kentucky-raised chef de cuisine, tested the menu for three months before opening. That's at Salt & Char, the Adelphi Hospitality Group's firstborn, next door. Moreover, the tight menu, with eight apps and eight mains, is disarmingly accessible: Pork with gnocchi. Personality: (***) Upscale and unfussy in a beautifully restored and modernized historic hotel. The Blue Hen Terrace will open this spring. Service: (**) Friendly if still a bit green four months in.Īmbiance: (**1/2) Understated English conservatory serving breakfast and dinner slightly chilly in winter. By the glass, $12 to $20 by the bottle, $41 to $875. Eurocentric wine list with a nice mix of Austrian, Hungarian and Slovenian wines. Focused compositions with grilled meats and seafood, French mother sauces and preserving influences from New Nordic cuisine.īeverage: (***1/2) Full bar (Morrissey's Lounge). Prices: Appetizers, $12 to $18 mains, $26 to $44 (or market price) desserts, around $8.įood: (***1/2) Small menu. The mood has changed, but it's a stunning lesson in architectural preservation, Saratoga's last golden age hotel cleverly modernized and saved. Salvaged elements from the Adelphi's 140-year past - Victorian mirrors, brass window fixtures, wooden phone booth - are cleverly worked in. Gone is the atmospheric weight of an aging grande dame, the thinning velvet of overstuffed upholstery, oxidized mirrors and leafy plants. Morrissey's Lounge, the hotel bar visible to Broadway, is the consummate place for civilized cocktails and a nightly raw bar. Restored hotel stairs no longer sag but coil symmetrically upward, and a sparkling reception desk wall is brilliantly inlaid with the hotel's cut-glass serving plates. Pop in, greeting the doorman as you go, and it's all gleaming tile, wood and glass. Four years and $34 million in renovations later, the Adelphi Hotel in Saratoga Springs is open.
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